Milan Fashion Week SS27: Demna’s Gucci Store, Chiuri’s Mirror Box and Prada’s 63 Skirts

Milan’s Spring 2027 week was a week of sets. Designers who have spent the past year settling into their houses built a whole Gucci shop, a mirror cube and a runway devoted to one garment, across a schedule W counted at more than 50 shows and 80-plus presentations over seven days.

Here is how the three biggest ideas played out. The week’s other stories got their own write-ups: Sunnei’s founders at Moschino, Glenn Martens’ farewell to Diesel, Tyler, the Creator at Bottega Veneta and Dario Vitale’s arrival at Emporio Armani.

Gucci: Demna Opens a Shop

On Friday (Sept. 25), Demna turned Gucci’s runway into a store. The set was a replica Gucci flagship, with marble walls, velvet seating, racks of clothes and shelves of accessories, per Luxe Digital, and W says the models didn’t just walk through it. They browsed, lingered and “shopped” their way around the space, past guests that included Cardi B, Donatella Versace and Edward Norton.

The conclusion of my research is that Gucci stands for the desire to belong to a more glamorous world.

Demna, in the show notes, W Magazine

The clothes tried to live up to that line. The show opened on sleek riding ensembles with logoed Boston and Lady Lunetta bags, then moved to thigh-grazing mini skirt suits in opaque black tights, a take on the ’80s power suit, The Zoe Report described. Menswear began in monochrome suits before turning preppy, with rugby stripes and white chinos, and finished on stacks of black leather belts over low-slung jeans, per Monocle. “Gucci is about luxury that wants to be seen,” Demna wrote.

Fendi: Chiuri Faces the Mirror

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second Fendi collection, on Wednesday (Sept. 23), put the audience in front of a mirrored box. The set drew on Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi (Mirror Cube), and Hypebae reports the models walked inside it as guests watched, their reflections multiplying with the crowd’s. The invitation carried a line from E.E. Cummings: “I like my body when it is with your body.”

The show opened on underwear in lace, embroidery and pastels, then moved to costume-like looks inspired by Raffaella Carrà. W adds the one musical reference: Chiuri also drew on Carrà and Adriano Celentano’s television performance of “Prisencolinensinainciusol,” staged in a hall of mirrors. Highlights included lace-trimmed bralettes under tuxedo vests and a white button-front dickey layered with a black lace-trimmed slip and a detached leather collar. Chiuri called the airy clothes “porous to emotions”, Monocle reports.

Prada: Sixty-Three Ways to Wear a Skirt

Prada opened the week on Tuesday (Sept. 22) with a collection that was all skirts: 63 looks, and not a dress, pair of trousers or shorts among them, CNN reported. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons pleated them in muted gray and black with fluorescent panels, dip-dyed them in a Rothko-like wash, crusted them in crystals and attached jewels to industrial Velcro.

The collection landed in the middle of a political argument. The AP noted it arrived amid an uproar in Italy over remarks by Foreign Minister Antonio Tajani suggesting that women who wear longer skirts are more faithful, which he later apologized for. The AP also quoted Prada on the garment’s double life.

When you express yourself, it is not that you are feminine, sexy, masculine; you are so many things together.

Miuccia Prada, AP

Simons said the no-trousers, no-dresses rule grew out of an old video interview in which Prada likened the skirt to a T-shirt for men, as “the place where she can put all her ideas.” Milan’s official schedule also listed an evening Raf Simons event with Jeff Mills the same night, per Unione Sarda.

Milan has now handed the season to Paris, where the front rows filled up from Sept. 28 with Rihanna, Rosalía, ROSÉ and LISA.

Added to the High Grailed archive on October 11, 2026.